Pause For Thought At The Ruins Of The Malpasset Dam

I love to incorporate something interesting when we are out walkking and this little adventure is no exception. The collapse of the Malpasset dam, in the backhills behind Frejus, remains one of the largest losses of life on French soil during peacetime. You can visit the area which is now a site of remembrance for the 423 people who lost their lives and be awestruck by the remains of the dam and the destruction it caused.

The remains of the Malpasset Dam

I had probably lived here in the South of France about 6/7 years before I even heard about this place but I really think it’s somewhere everyone should go and see at least once. Since my first visit I’ve actually been drawn back to the place about half a dozen further times and I always find it both emotive, and impressionable.

The valley is now a tranquil place for hiking and paying respects to the 423 who lost their lives

The dam was originally built to provide the surrounding area with drinking water and took over 30 months to complete from when construction began in April 1952. It was opened in 1954 and stood 66 metres high, 222 metres long, and had a thickness of 6.78 metres at the base and 1.5 metres at the rim.

A fateful day in December 1959

Over the next five years the dam slowly filled up and after heavy autumn rains, in November 1959, the first small leaks were found. The leaks grew rapidly, indicating a serious danger, but nothing was done.

Nearly 50 cm of rain fell from the 19th of November to the 2nd of December, with 13 cm in the last 24 hour period and the dam filled right up to the brim for the first time….and began to overflow. Due to a strike by the telephone company, which meant the phones were not working, the guardian of the dam set out on his bike to warn the authorities. He wanted to open the valves to release some of the water pressure but his request was refused on the grounds the motorway construction site was in danger of flooding

One of the valves

The breach 

Afer further inspections, the valve was finally opened at 6pm and the water level began dropping a few centimetres but it was sadly a case of too-little too-late. At 9.13pm, the dam burst and a 40-m high wall of water came crashing down the valley at 70 km an hour carrying with it enormous blocks of concrete as big as trucks, some weighing up to 600 tons. The wave destroyed two small villages – Malpasset and Bozon as well as the construction site for the nearby A8 motorway. Within 20 mins, the wave, still a monstrous 3m high, reached Frejus and finally escaped into the sea.

Enormous blocks of concrete litter the valley floor

The entire wall of the dam had collapsed leaving only a few blocks remaining on the right bank..Today, pieces of the dam are still scattered throughout the area and are a poignant reminder of the destructive force of the wave.

It was reported that the death toll was 423, with 135 children under the age of 15, and the estimated cost of the destruction was said to be about 425 million euros in 2010 terms.

For those with a command of the French language you'll probably have spotted some irony in the name - Malpasset - which means to "Go Badly" though it was named long before tragedy struck....

Visiting the site

Now on to the logisitics of visiting the site. Located conveniently just off the A8 (exit 38 for Frejus) it is very easily accessible other than crossing a ford! At the roundabout after the motorway exit / peage you take the last exit on the left signposted to Malpasset. Almost immediately you take a road also signposted to the left which you follow for about 4km. As you approach the underpass of the motorway there is a ford which you need to cross. I have seen it vary from bone dry to about 12cm deep and have always managed to get my little car across. If you really don’t want to take your vehicule across you can park just before the ford and either pick your way across the stones or take shoes and socks off and wade on through!

Once under the motorway you will arrive at a large parking area and this is the start point for the walk. You will find an information panel at the foot of the trail head describing the disaster.  

There are a couple of variations of the walk you can use - firstly a simple out-and-back to the dam which is approximately 3km and about 45 mins in length (return journey). Follow the path past the notice board and after about 400m the trail peels off to the right signposted to the dam. Follow this up the valley. At one point you will need to cross the river and this can be tricky if the water level is high. In October we resorted to taking our shoes and socks off to cross.

Crossing the river

You will pass countless enormous boulders littering the valley floor before you reach the remains of the dam itself. Be sure to have a good look at the escape valve and take a few moments to think about the force that must have reduced this huge mass to rubble in an instant.

In order to return to the cars just retrace your steps.

Longer Loop Walk

Total Distance: 4.47km             Elevation: 140m        Estimated Time: 1h45     Difficulty: Easy

Follow the instructions as above to reach the dam and then you will need to climb up and over the right hand side of the dam taking care as you do so. 

Crossing the dam

On the other side of the dam you will once again need to cross the river (for the last time!)  - with or without shoes – and continue on the valley floor. 

Crossing the Reyran River again!

You will reach an intersection where you turn left and follow the path up the hill. At the next junction you go left again and will loop around to the viewpoint looking over the dam.

View of the dam from the viewpoint high up on the hillside

You now descend back down the track which will return you to the parking.

The full route and map can be found here:  Malpasset Loop Walk

If you have time spare after your walk I recommend stopping off at the Senequier Roman Aqueduct. It is located 2.8km along on the left of the road as you drive back to the motorway. It’s quite difficult to spot the sign but these are the GPS coordinates: 43.486757, 6.742691. It’s a 5 min walk from the road to the arch.

Aqueduct from below

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